Drab winter season is on us full force. We need something to look forwards to for the next spring and summer (IF and WHEN they ever arrive SIGH). Nothing more fun and interesting than to check out some designer denim from the mega luxury brands out there. I think this stuff is pretty much “un-wearabe” in real life… but dreaming is free and we can be sure that we will find a lot of knock-offs, and cheaper imitations of all these beautiful pieces around somewhere soon!
Watanabe’s seasonal dip into workwear themes took more of a definite turn this season, with the designer modernizing his go-to utility staples with an indigo palette and a multitude of Japanese-inspired textures. Micro jacquards, dobbys, sashiko surfaces and his signature indigo patch working all carried a strong sense of the sartorial artisan, modernizing what Watanabe does best.
For Summer, Yohji Yamamoto took a trip through various indigo traditions from the Texas tuxedo to Japanese workwear and uniforms, delivering a full-blown selection of denim-on-denim in vivid bright cast shades. Silhouettes were upscaled with chore coats, and were updated with Gakuran Tsume-eri (traditional Japanese school uniform jackets), while classic denim shirts came with bellowing sleeves and jackets sliced in half.
Carol Lim and Humberto Leon (Kenzo) took a hyper-stylized tourist jaunt through Paris this season – their muses clad in pastel parkas, transparent sweaters and tapered cycling trousers. Denim was effortless in mid-indigo stonewashed surfaces and classic menswear shapes.
Hedi Slimane’s (Saint Laurent) S/S 15 show brought much heated debate with an even more formulaic collection than ever – its polished take on rock ‘n’ roll vintage shown on obscure skinny, scrawny teens. This season, Slimane looked to the ’70s psych rock influence with a cult casting sporting beaten skinnies, suede rider jackets, sequined waistcoats and cowboy boots.
Kris Van Assche (Dior Homme) carried a subtle nautical theme throughout his elegant S/S 15 Dior Homme show via functional toggled jackets, wide-set awning stripes and a fresh palette of red, yellow, white and indigo. From deep and saturated coatings to washed out `90s shades with allover hand-written prints, the show was full of indigo inspiration.