Iceberg’s reset button has been hit again; James Long, the label’s London-based menswear designer, was recently appointed womenswear creative director, succeeding the Austrian Arthur Arbesser. Pre-Fall was the first collection in his new role, which will be followed in February by a show of both lines during New York Fashion Week. “It’s a new chapter,” said the designer.
Long is known for a certain flamboyance, which he kept in check here; yet Lurex, which he has often used in his menswear line, added sparkle to sporty multicolor striped sweaters emblazoned with the Iceberg logo. Elsewhere it came knitted into geometric motifs on a luxe tracksuit, highlighting the lineup’s sportswear flair.
Denim was stonewashed, bleached, and distressed, yet lavishly splattered with glittering stars that added a touch of pop Hollywood Boulevard–inspired appeal. Paired with a short jacket printed with black and white comics offset by bright colors, the look was sleek with a dash of fun. Long’s stance seems likely to giving the label the jolt of energy it needs; his ebullient, irreverent style could be further refined by the exacting production techniques that Gilmar, Iceberg’s Italian owner, can provide. “The quality of what they’re able to achieve is amazing. Their headquarters are so pristine and efficient, they look like a Stanley Kubrick movie,” Long said in admiration.
We are noting the especial emphasis of wide cuffs – so hold off on buying more cropped jeans! And also, the lower waist, so hold off on buying lots of more right-now high waisted denim styles.
You can buy Iceberg jeans from the current collection at Yoox.