From her showroom in the Marais in Paris, Barbara Bui outlined the three pillars within her latest collection. She didn’t explicitly rank them, but their order seemed clear.

There were her denim pieces assembled entirely from vintage stock. The collection, which will be produced in small quantities, included a spencer-style jacket with peaked lapels and leather cuffs, a flattering bustier, a one-shoulder minidress, a pair of jeans, and a basque formed like a jacket folded over. In each, the visible effort – figuring out a balance between the washes, and positioning the panels to play up their previous lives – was impressive. And sure, the concept may not be new, but Bui’s versions, all made in France, hold up well.

The second story channeled Studio 54 via fluid, flouncy party looks in silver and gold lamé, as well as a silk treated to resemble leather (this being Bui, there was actual leather, too). Several pieces featured zips that encourage the wearer to adapt a draped panel or remove a strap. The blouse can be styled several ways thanks to its low, cross-body construction, while the jumpsuit will inevitably appear less OTT when worn wrapped at the waist. In any case, few would protest having several different sexy options within a single look. One duly noted extra detail: micro studs that effervesced on collars and slip tops.

Regarding the final statement, it was a return to allover white. Bui revisited the denim styles, also adding in frilly tops delineated with lacing. The flattering cut of the white jean which is high waisted with an every-so-slightly boyfriend leg, should come as no surprise given that the designer has been making women look great since 1987. Yes, it’s been 30 years.

I have especially noted the denim bustier and the one-shoulder colorblock dress with the black leather detail on one side (see below).

You can shop for Barbara Bui clothing at Forward and at Stylebop.

cropped denim jacketsstraight leg jeansdenim topsdenim bustierswhite denim


{images courtesy Vogue}