Because lately a lot of brands like Nudie, for instance, are launching denim made of dry selvedge, I became curious what this actually about and asked around.
To make it short: raw denim which can also be called dry denim, refers to an unwashed pair of jeans that will be dark, stiff, and rich in dye. Selvedge, means the pants are made on old-style shuttle looms.
As I am privileged to have my friend and denim expert, Jeff Shafer former Agave, and present BLUER, at hand for all my denim questions, he gave me the following explanation:
“Dry means never having been wet or washed. Dry selvedge denim comes straight from the mill and will be cut and sewn without any wash.
All indigo “bleeds”. If you wash it the dark indigo colored warp will bleed into the water
And that will tint the natural colored weft.
Denim lovers, and especially denimheads like the high contrast. It shows the natural wear better… the natural whiskers, chevrons, bones, etc.
Dry = Raw for purists.
Once you wash it then its just selvedge or selvage.
It can be:
1. RAW or DRY
2. Rinsed. Unusually no abrasion.
3. Washed, usually will abrasion. Pumice.”
And here is more about dry selvedge denim and a short “what” and “how to”:
“In recent years, dry denim has become a popular alternative to the tried-and-true blue jean.
What this means for the customer is that it will be up to them to clean their jeans for the first time and to decide just exactly how they want them to look. A heavier wash, for example, will give the denim a classic faded look while a light wash (or skipping the suds altogether) will retain the darker blue. While this customization is an exciting hallmark of the fabric, it can feel intimidating, time-consuming and even a little scary for first-time buyers.
Oh and no, this is not only for the dudes. Equal rights for the ladies, cool! We are looking into this and will follow up with raw denims for the ladies as well ASAP!