In the past few months we have been featuring a lot denim brands specializing in selvedge denim. Some of them very “insider” – not too well known – like STUDIO D’ARTISAN. And some of them, like Naked & Famous, well known by most denim lovers and denim heads.
We are very focused on continuous featuring top-notch, but often less well known, denim brands around the globe/ And that’s why we are trying to help you understand all different kinds of denims and denim treatments.
Today we want to explain the term ‘Chain Stitch denim’ – scroll down to find out more.
Chain stitch denim refers primarily to the chain-stitched hem found on high-quality jeans. Especially those made on vintage Union Special 43200G machines (image below).
Here’s a breakdown of what makes it special and why denim enthusiasts love it:
Chain stitching is a sewing technique where the thread loops back on itself to create a chain-like pattern. In denim, it’s most often used for:
- Hems (especially on selvedge jeans)
- Waistbands
- Yokes and pocket seams (on high-end or repro denim)
Unlike lock stitching, a chain stitch will unravel easily if broken, but it’s incredibly flexible and strong when intact.
Why It Matters in Denim
- Rope-like Fading
Over time, chain-stitched hems create “roping”, a beautiful, wavy fade along the hemline due to the fabric’s tension and indigo loss. It’s a major feature in raw/selvedge denim aging. - Heritage Detail
Vintage workwear jeans from Levi’s, Lee, and Wrangler all used chain stitching. Modern brands do it to replicate the vintage look and quality. - Durability & Flexibility
The structure allows the fabric to stretch and move without breaking, especially important in rugged denim.
Where to Get Chain Stitch Hemming
If your jeans don’t come with a chain stitch hem. or need to be hemmed, but without loosing the authentic look, these places offer authentic Union Special chain stitching:
- Self Edge (NYC, LA, SF, Portland)
- Blue in Green Soho (NYC)
- Railcar Fine Goods (LA area)
- Gustin (SF area, some services offered)
- Indigo Proof (Mail-in, Oregon)
- Denim Therapy (NYC or mail-in) – Offers chain stitching with vintage machines
Some Brands Known for Chain-Stitched Denim:
- Iron Heart
- Studio D’Artisan
- The Real McCoy’s
- 3sixteen
- Rogue Territory
- Raleigh Denim
- ONI Denim
- Samurai Jeans
- Naked & Famous (in some premium lines)
Some of above mentioned brands have already been featured here @Denimology. We will continue with many more of those and other selvedge focused brands in the months to come, so stay tuned:-)
