Should we say Mr. Diesel Glenn Martens, or rather, the new Mr. Margiela Martens? The answer … time will tell. Thing is that Maison Margiela and Diesel belong to the same company, so why not also share the designer?!
Personally, I am not sure how Martens will carry off being a designer for like – let’s say – two totally opposite direction brands. Well, also, it does take some guts for a designer to follow both John Galliano and Martin Margiela!
For now, I can only say, way to go Glenn Martens. And we were really intrigued by your first Margiela collection!
Maison Margiela stands out as an anomaly in this era. Martin Margiela’s eponymous label has always been characterized by a unique approach to deconstruction. Embracing both the act and its implications on the design process.
First understood by a few, but undeniably felt by all. From the founder’s disruptive beginnings to Matthieu Blazy’s impactful tenure, to John Galliano’s decade of cinematic decadence, the house has consistently rewritten its codes while maintaining its core. Now, with Glenn Martens at the helm, the gaze of the industry sharpens once more.
Glenn Martens’s couture debut notably incorporated denim and upcycled jeans as part of his layered, archival-inflected narrative. Presented at Paris Haute Couture Week, Martens’s debut honored the house’s legacy while forging his own distinct path. The collection was set in Le Centquatre, a venue reminiscent of old Margiela shows, with peeling paper walls evoking faded interiors of Flemish homes.
Themes included Blues and black denim with painted details, and upcycled materials such as thrifted denim garments refashioned into new silhouettes.
Painted light wash jeans were paired with cowboy-style boots and layered vests, a textured callback to Margiela’s DIY ethos and a reinterpretation of classic denim fits.
The collection also included distressed and patchwork denims as well as acid washes and coated finishes, creating sheens and architectural surface contrasts.
You can watch the complete show in the video.
You can shop for Maison Margiela clothing at Farfetch women/men and at CETTIRE.
